Knitting can be both a relaxing hobby and a creative outlet, offering a vast range of patterns, textures, and techniques. Among the foundational concepts in knitting are the fabric patterns known as stockinette and reverse stockinette. These two stitch patterns form the basis of countless designs and garments, and while they are closely related, their visual and structural differences are significant. Understanding the contrast between stockinette and reverse stockinette is essential for both beginner and experienced knitters who want to improve their skills, read patterns more confidently, and create more refined finished pieces.
Understanding Stockinette Stitch
What Is Stockinette Stitch?
The stockinette stitch is one of the most common and recognizable knitting patterns. It is created by alternating rows of knit stitches on the right side and purl stitches on the wrong side when working flat. In circular knitting, stockinette is achieved simply by knitting every round.
Visual Characteristics
Stockinette fabric has a smooth, ‘V’-shaped pattern on the right side, which is known as the knit side. On the wrong side, you’ll find a bumpy texture, commonly referred to as the purl side. The neatness and uniformity of stockinette make it a popular choice for projects like sweaters, scarves, and socks.
Behavior and Structure
One notable characteristic of stockinette stitch is its tendency to curl at the edges. The fabric naturally rolls toward the knit side horizontally and vertically, which can be both a design element or an inconvenience depending on the project. This curling can often be addressed by adding border stitches such as garter stitch or ribbing.
Understanding Reverse Stockinette Stitch
What Is Reverse Stockinette Stitch?
Reverse stockinette stitch is exactly what its name suggests: the reverse of stockinette. This means the purl side of the fabric is presented as the right side. To achieve reverse stockinette when knitting flat, you work purl stitches on the right side and knit stitches on the wrong side. In circular knitting, it’s created by purling every round.
Visual Characteristics
Reverse stockinette has a bumpy texture on the front, showcasing the rows of purl stitches. The back of the fabric, which features the familiar ‘V’ knit stitches, becomes the wrong side. This texture gives reverse stockinette a more rustic, organic look that contrasts the sleek surface of regular stockinette.
Behavior and Structure
Just like regular stockinette, reverse stockinette also curls, but in the opposite direction. The fabric rolls toward the purl side. Despite this similarity, the visual texture and aesthetic application of reverse stockinette make it ideal for showcasing certain design elements or creating contrast in textured patterns.
Key Differences Between Stockinette and Reverse Stockinette
Right Side Appearance
- Stockinette: The smooth knit side faces outward, with ‘V’-shaped stitches.
- Reverse Stockinette: The bumpy purl side is outward-facing, creating a more textured appearance.
Wrong Side Appearance
- Stockinette: The purl side appears on the back with bumps across the surface.
- Reverse Stockinette: The knit side, with ‘V’s, is on the back of the piece.
Use in Design
- Stockinette: Ideal for sleek and smooth surfaces. Frequently used as the main fabric in garments.
- Reverse Stockinette: Commonly used as a contrasting background for cables or colorwork to add texture and visual depth.
Stitching Technique
- Stockinette (Flat): Knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side.
- Reverse Stockinette (Flat): Purl on the right side, knit on the wrong side.
Texture and Visual Impact
Stockinette stitch offers a polished, contemporary look and is often used when a clean appearance is desired. On the other hand, reverse stockinette introduces a rustic charm and textured depth. Designers may choose reverse stockinette to make motifs stand out or to soften the look of an otherwise plain surface.
Applications in Knitting Projects
Where to Use Stockinette Stitch
Stockinette stitch is used in many common knitting projects due to its simplicity and elegance:
- Sweaters and cardigans
- Hats and scarves
- Socks and mittens
- Baby garments and blankets
Where to Use Reverse Stockinette Stitch
Reverse stockinette is often used as a supporting stitch pattern to highlight decorative elements. It’s found in:
- Cable knitting as a background texture
- Colorwork panels
- Textured patterns in afghans and throws
- Designs where the purl side creates visual interest
Tips for Working with Both Stitches
Managing Curling
Whether you choose stockinette or reverse stockinette, edge curling is a natural issue. You can prevent or minimize curling by incorporating these strategies:
- Use garter stitch or seed stitch borders
- Add a lining or sew the edges flat
- Block the finished piece using steam or wet blocking techniques
Combining the Two Stitches
Many patterns creatively combine stockinette and reverse stockinette for contrast. For example, placing a stockinette motif within a reverse stockinette field can draw attention to the design. This contrast adds depth and texture without needing complex stitches.
Why Knowing the Difference Matters
Learning the difference between stockinette and reverse stockinette is more than just understanding which side looks better. It allows knitters to interpret patterns accurately, choose the best fabric for their design intentions, and troubleshoot any texture or appearance issues. This foundational knowledge gives knitters the flexibility to customize their projects with intention and confidence.
Stockinette and reverse stockinette are mirror images of each other in both construction and appearance. Each offers unique qualities that can enhance your knitting projects in different ways. Stockinette provides a clean and classic surface, while reverse stockinette adds texture and depth. By recognizing their differences and understanding when to use each, knitters can elevate their craft, make more informed design choices, and bring their creative visions to life with greater precision. Whether you’re working on a simple scarf or a complex garment, mastering these stitch patterns will greatly expand your knitting repertoire.