Learning how to do stockinette stitch is an essential step in mastering the basics of knitting. This classic stitch pattern is favored by both beginners and experienced knitters because of its smooth texture and versatility. Often seen in scarves, sweaters, hats, and blankets, stockinette stitch creates a flat, V-shaped pattern on one side and a bumpy texture on the reverse. With a few simple techniques and some practice, you can easily add this foundational stitch to your knitting skillset and use it in a wide range of handmade projects.
What Is Stockinette Stitch?
Stockinette stitch is one of the most common stitch patterns in knitting. It is achieved by alternating rows of knit stitches and purl stitches. When done flat (on straight needles), you knit one row and purl the next. This repetition gives the fabric a smooth surface on the front (called the right side) and a textured surface on the back (called the wrong side).
Why Use Stockinette Stitch?
This stitch is especially popular because of its clean look and comfortable feel. Stockinette stitch:
- Is easy to learn and memorize
- Produces a flexible and stretchy fabric
- Provides a neat finish for visible surfaces
- Works well for garments and accessories
However, it is important to note that stockinette stitch tends to curl at the edges. This characteristic can be managed with borders, blocking, or combining it with other stitch patterns.
Materials You Will Need
Before starting your stockinette stitch project, gather the following materials:
- Yarn: Any yarn weight can be used. For beginners, a medium-weight (worsted) yarn is easiest to handle.
- Knitting needles: Choose the size recommended on your yarn label. Straight or circular needles are both suitable.
- Scissors and yarn needle: For finishing your work.
Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1: Cast On
Begin by casting on the number of stitches required for your project. You can use any cast-on method you prefer, such as the long-tail cast-on or knitted cast-on. For practice, cast on about 20 stitches using medium-weight yarn and US size 8 (5 mm) needles.
Step 2: Knit the First Row
Hold the needle with the cast-on stitches in your left hand and the empty needle in your right. Insert the right needle into the front of the first stitch from left to right. Wrap the working yarn around the right needle, pull it through the loop, and slide the old stitch off the left needle. Repeat this process across the entire row. You have now completed a knit row, also called the right side of stockinette stitch.
Step 3: Purl the Next Row
Turn your work so the needle with the stitches is in your left hand again. This time, insert the right needle into the front of the first stitch from right to left. Wrap the yarn counterclockwise around the needle, pull it through, and slide the old stitch off. Continue this across the row. This creates the purl row, which becomes the wrong side of the fabric.
Step 4: Repeat the Knit and Purl Rows
Continue alternating rows of knit and purl. Knit the stitches on the right side of the fabric and purl the stitches on the wrong side. As you add more rows, the front of your fabric will show the classic V-shaped pattern of stockinette stitch.
Troubleshooting and Tips
Prevent Curling Edges
Stockinette stitch naturally curls at the sides. To avoid this, try one or more of the following:
- Add a border using garter stitch (knit every row) or seed stitch
- Block your finished piece to help it lie flat
- Use thicker yarn or smaller needles for more structure
Count Your Rows
If you lose track of how many rows you’ve done, count the V-shaped stitches vertically on the front side. Each V represents one knit stitch and therefore one row. This helps you maintain consistency, especially when making paired items like sleeves or socks.
Correct Tension
Maintain an even tension throughout your work for a smooth, uniform appearance. Avoid pulling too tightly or leaving the yarn too loose, as this can distort the fabric. If needed, practice a few swatches before beginning your main project.
Using Stockinette Stitch in Projects
Stockinette stitch can be used in many types of knitting projects. Here are a few ideas:
- Scarves: Add a garter stitch border to keep the edges from curling.
- Hats: Combine stockinette with ribbing at the brim for structure.
- Sweaters: Use stockinette for the body and add texture with cables or lace.
- Blankets: Alternate stockinette panels with other patterns for interest.
Once you’re comfortable with the technique, you can experiment with shaping, colorwork, and combining it with other stitches for more complex designs.
Working Stockinette Stitch in the Round
If you’re knitting with circular needles or double-pointed needles, stockinette stitch is even easier. Simply knit every round there’s no need to purl. This creates the same smooth right side and bumpy wrong side, but without turning your work.
This method is ideal for knitting hats, socks, and sleeves. Just remember that knitting in the round changes how you count rows, so keep track as you go.
Variations and Alternatives
Once you understand how to knit stockinette stitch, you can explore variations to create new textures and effects. A few examples include:
- Reverse Stockinette: Flip the fabric so the purl side is the right side.
- Broken Stockinette: Insert rows of garter or seed stitch between stockinette rows.
- Stockinette with stripes: Change yarn colors every few rows to add visual interest.
These variations allow you to personalize your projects while still relying on the basic knit and purl techniques.
Mastering how to do stockinette stitch is a fundamental skill for any knitter. Its smooth appearance and easy construction make it a favorite for everything from simple scarves to complex garments. With the right materials, a bit of patience, and attention to detail, you can quickly become confident in using this versatile stitch. Whether you’re creating your first project or refining your technique, stockinette stitch offers endless creative possibilities and is a valuable tool in your knitting journey.